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Of all the insurgents to emerge from the alt-country scare of the mid-'90s, Robbie Fulks was the most versatile and, in certain moments, the most irreverent. A songwriting, singing and guitar-playing triple threat, Fulks penned definitive takedowns of Music City ("Fuck This Town"), rockist snobbery ("Every Kind of Music But Country"), and glitterati bathos ("She Took A Lot of Pills and Died") — and that was just on his first album.…