Vicia(4260 Forest Park Avenue), which opens today in the city's Cortex district, is that rare St. Louis restaurant capable of drawing national attention before it's served a single dish. Co-owners Michael and Tara Gallina are both alumni of the Blue Hill at Stone Barns, and their decision to leave New York for Michael's native St. Louis drew headlines even before they honed their concept.After a successful run of pop-ups, that concept, Vicia, opens with lunch service today — a casual beginning to what's certain to become one of the city's most coveted reservations.…